Almanak Stories

Lustrum 19 almanak: Oklympische spelen

I see the evenings at the climbing wall in Utrecht as the strength of USAC. In the absence of mountains and rock, this is where we as a club spend most of our time. Although most of our climbing hours are spent in Utrecht, USAC has shaped my adventures, experiences and most importantly my friendships in the Alps. But imagine looking beyond the A in USAC. Maybe an A from Alaska or even an H from the Himalayas. How do you do that?

The snow beneath my feet squeaks and creaks as I push my right ski higher up the slope. It is March 2023 and I am with the USAC on a combination week in Pitztal. For the past week, there has been something in the air among experienced alpinists in the Netherlands. A short announcement on Instagram creates excitement: ‘Circle the 13th of March in red in your calendar and sign up for the Expedition Academy IV’.
I slide my left ski up and continue my conversation with Claartje. We’ve been dreaming ever since the announcement: what if? What if we both got into the Expedition Academy? The USAC had fallen out of the boat in the previous academies, but now at least five Utrecht mountaineers were hopeful for the selection weeks.
Five months later, with tired legs, I paced nervously between my tent and a camping chair. I repeat this rhythm endlessly. Last week I spent long days in the high mountains with about 20 of the most talented Dutch climbers. I left earlier than the others to be on time for the alpine instructor training. And then my phone rings. Boris Textor is calling.

After a year of training together, this feeling has only intensified. We are no longer just a group of climbers, but a close group of friends who are getting the most out of the sport. In the Netherlands we train ourselves silly in order to spend as long and adventurous days as possible in the mountains. Step by step, under the guidance of our coaches, we grow into versatile expedition climbers.
But there are two flipsides to the medal. The first is personal: the Expedition Academy is a huge time commitment. It is like a boarding year, but for two and a half years. You are away from home a lot, you train hard and you have less time for your relationship, friends, work and even USAC. It shakes the foundations of your existence. After a year, there are five new singles in the group, I myself spent six months at home with burnout, and two participants now live elsewhere in the Alps. But no one doubts the commitment. The team is always there for you, even in difficult times. When I spent two weeks hyperventilating on the couch because of my burnout, I received not only support from my girlfriend and my family, but above all a lot of love from the team. They understand why you put so much aside, because it is worth it.The other downside is the risk of mountaineering. After 11 years of Expedition Academy, Line, Mats and Martijn perished in the mountains. Our first goal, both as a team and from the NKBV, is always to get home safely from every trek. I would be lying if I said that there are no additional risks involved in this route. But within the Expedition Academy, you receive guidance from the most experienced alpinists in the Netherlands, who help you learn to make safe choices. Without their support, I would still be trying to climb at this level, but their guidance makes all the difference in those difficult decisions you encounter along the way.

A look ahead to the expedition
Nine more months await us, filled with at least seven weeks of training. And after that, then we will go on an expedition. Where to? That will remain a secret for now. But I can give you the first outlines of that adventure.
Imagine: a country, far away from climbing wall Utrecht. You are in a jeep, making your way along a churning river over something that was once a road. Until the jeep can go no further. From there, you cover the rest on foot, for days, until you arrive at the base of an immense glacier. There you set up your tent camp.
Before you lie unclimbed mountains more than 5,500 metres high with imposing north faces, covered with ice formations and rock pillars an alpinist can only dream of. And there, at that point, at the foot of that unknown terrain, the real adventure begins.

Ambitious alpinists, beware!
In a year and a half, the adventure for Claartje, Maël and me will be over. But that doesn’t mean we stop climbing. On the contrary, but for you then begins the chance to embark on this adventure yourselves. So listen carefully, especially you, Ferd and Lucas.
Do you want a chance at the Expedition Academy selection? Then you really don’t need to climb TD tours or onsight 7b. What is important is that you climb at least at C2 level and do a lot of tours every summer.
From now on, choose to spend as much time in the mountains as possible, learn ice climbing, don’t just climb rock routes and percetionise climbing styles that don’t suit you. Swap areas such as Berdorf and Hotton for Ettringen more often, because that’s when you learn to climb with real variety. Make sure you are a team player, and above all: be motivated to the bone.

A look ahead to the USAC
The USAC is not about top-class sport, but about creating a safe and accessible environment for everyone who loves the mountains. Not everyone needs to go on expeditions, and that is not my wish. Still, wouldn’t it be great if there was more than one genuine alpine activity on the calendar?
Alpine climbing week has been the climbing highlight for several generations of USACers for years. But why should it stop there? You don’t have to wait for the board to organise something. Stand up yourself! Think of something new, like a women’s climbing week, an ice climbing weekend or a glacier trip with overnight stays in mini-bivouacs. The mountains are waiting for you all year. Take those chances, head out, and above all: make friends in the mountains.